USA Today Review

USA Today Review

USA Today Review

February 2007

Marshalton Inn, 1300 Strasburg Rd. West Chester, 610-692-4367; contemporary French. Chef David Cox’s cooking “always retains a solid French bent”. His duck confit steeps in fat for 12 hours to an amazing, juniper scented tenderness. House-cured salt cod and potatoes make a fluffy brandade filling for a puffy pastry ‘ravioli’ set over a Basquaise garnish of roasted peppers and capers. Tender saddle of rabbit is elegantly stuffed with wild mushrooms and sided with wide sheets of house made pasta. A strip of Scottish venison is seared with a light pepper crust that adds a spark of heat to the earthy sweetness of chestnut spaetzles tinted with a bitter kiss of 99% cocoa chocolate. Cox’s cooking already approaches that next level with some frequency. I loved his dedicate Parisian-style gnocchi airy choux pastry dumplings tossed in Parmigiano-Reggiano broth with bits of fennel sausage and broccoli rabe. And his ‘blintz’ was a cleaver rebuke to the requisite crab-cake, wrapping a simple crab salad inside a tarragon-flecked crepe with avocado and grapefruit. Beautifully seared scallops played against the sweetness of salsify root cooked three ways –pureed, fried and glazed, “Entrees

Craig LaBan

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